Friday, October 24, 2008
David here. I'm in Charlottesville, VA visiting my sister Jessica. I've been on the east coast now for about 2 weeks now. Casey and I flew out of San Francisco and into Washington DC using the buddy passes so bounteously bestowed upon us by our pilot friend, Jeff. I must apologize. I have been the worst blogger of all time. I think the hardest part about being a delinquent blogger is not so much that I leave people hanging, but that when I finally actually sit down to write, I have forgotten everything. So I sit here now, comfortable in a warm home, showered, well-fed, wearing clean clothes, and well-socialized, trying to reengage the psyche of the traveling David. I am always struck by the ability of my brain to adjust itself to new environments so quickly and completely that I'm no longer granted access to memories and thoughts associated with previous settings. But this is why I take pictures. So I will take a moment to browse my photos for inspiration.
Well the last we talked, we were about to enter a period of rain and boy did it ever. It rained for about 2 days and two nights. The days were mostly a mixture of showers to drizzle to heavy fog. There was a stretch of road that was rather terrifying during a foggy state. I think it was around the small town of Manchester, just north of Point Arena. Close your eyes and imagine for a moment this road. No, wait. Read the next few sentences and then close your eyes and imagine for a moment. The road was very windy and its elevation profile would read something like corduroy. On one side was a high cliff hundreds of feet above the tempestuous Pacific ocean. On the other side was farm and pasture land. Since we were heading south, we were of course, on the tempestuous Pacific side of the road. And this side very seldom had any guard rails. And since we were on route 1, there was no shoulder. And since we were high up and it was rainy, we were inside a cloud. A very dense cold soupy fog. Visibility was about 10 feet. Our surroundings were reduced to a narrow band of grey road, grey/yellow stripes on the road, and whatever grey things happened to be on the side of the road. It was probably good that I couldn't see the ocean so far and frothy below us, otherwise I probably would have been unable to go on. But being the brazen explorers that we are, Casey and I donned our most fluorescent clothing items and navigated ever so cautiously until we descended below the clouds in the late afternoon.
That night we set up our tent in a clearing under a large conifer that was in the middle of a wheat-colored grassy field high above and overlooking the ocean. As night settled in, we realized that we were camping in a family of deers' home. They walked up as a family and looked at us with confusion and alarm, eliciting heavy a guilt in Casey in me. We sang them a song with ukulele and guitar for a while to try to get them to share the spot with us, but I think they were too scared.
The next night we ended up staying in a campground with a couple we met at a gas station in a tiny town, I think it was called Stewart's Point. Initially we weren't going to stay there because it was something like 20 dollars for a spot and Casey and I have made a pact to never pay for camping. But it was getting quite dark and rainy and there were no houses or any conceivable camping spots along the road. So we opted to try our luck at arranging a wort trade with the ranger. When we got down to the sites, we ran into the couple, Heidi and Danny, and they offered to share their site with us. They made us tea, and in the morning made us coffee, sausage, eggs, pancakes, juice, and took us on a hike to see the Russian fort, Fort Ross.
That night Casey and I didn't sleep well. For one, the tent was pretty soaked. Having set it up in a downpour and then moving already wet stuff inside (including ourselves) there was not any dryness to be found. Then we were kept awake by a little anxiety. Here was the thing: Casey and I generally work in a kind of synergy, coming up with better ideas than either of us would have thought of on our own. But on occasion, we somehow manage to convince ourselves (through some forces that I'm sure a social psychologist could explain) to do pretty stupid things. (cough*sailing into a drawbridge*cough). This time we had convinced ourselves that it would be ok to set up our tent in this low sandy troughy area that was clearly a river bed. We even called it a river bed. And it was storming. We're talking huge raindrops. And it rained all night. It's unbelievable how much it rained that night. And yet Casey and I were too lazy or tired or afraid of getting our dryish sleeping clothes drenched to move our tent to higher ground. Fortunately we were not swept away in a raging river in the middle of the night and that morning we dried our things in the sun, wondering at our collective judgement and thanked our lucky stars.
It only took three more days of biking to reach San Francisco. But in those three days we camped next to a man in a trailer who told us it would be ok if we slept there, but that we should be forewarned that he will probably get drunk and start yelling. Later that night we found out that he also gets drunk and sings along to Sarah McLachlan. We also stayed a night in a place called Dogtown, where we slept next to a nice couple's barn and cooked our dinner on a fire. It was a nice clear night and we decided not to set up a tent; that was, until I had to repeatedly fend off a rat from trying to enter my sleeping bag through the opening around my face.
Have you ever seen a bunch of see lions basking in the sun in shallow water? They look like large identical pieces of driftwood that taper up on each side. It's very surreal.
We had a pretty substantial climb as highway 1 turned away from the coast to head into San Francisco. After crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, Casey and I were overwhelmed by the overstimulating urban experience. It was a good distance to our friend Kristen's townhouse in the Mission-Dolores. At first I was intimidated and stressed out by biking in the city. Not only were the cars pushy and scary, but other bikers would zoom past you in a way that was hard to interpret as anything but resentful. But soon I learned (especially after taking the gear off my bike) that you just need to get in the zone and become a maverick yourself. The cracked and potholey roads, however, were too much to get used to.
We had a great time in San Fran, going to a dance party for Obama, cooking, exploring the city, working on the website, watching movies, and doing lots of eating. We saw the Blue Angels, went to a 25 cent machine museum (way more awesome than it sounds), attended an astronomy lecture at UC Berkely, I went on a guided bus tour while Casey went hiking and swimming in a cold lake, helped to host a presidential debate potluck party, and visited friends from New College during which we learned about the long now project (http://www.longnow.org/).
I flew to DC a day before Casey. On the plane I met an interesting guy who was on his way to interview for a high position in the Department of Homeland Security and had ideas on how to end US dependence on foreign oil within a few years, and how to overthrow the Iranian government without firing a single bullet. He also thought that gay marriage was a bogus idea, despite being a gay man himself and owning one of the largest gay bars in San Francisco. It was interesting for me to hear his opinion on Obama, especially because everyone I had been surrounded recently by has been so excited about him.
In DC I stayed with Aunty Martha, which was very nice. At this point in my life I am really appreciating family. It was wonderful spending that time In Mercer Island getting to know my cousins there, and speaking to family on the phone has been especially warming. I am not sure if it has to do with biking or being so far away or just a part of getting older, but family is very dear to me right now. So it was good to see Aunty M. I also got to spend brief but quality time with Annie, Isaac and Carly (all friends from New College) and Kathrin, Jake, and Emily (friends from camp).
I took a Greyhound to get to Charlottesville and have been visiting my sister for a few days now. We went to Monticello, saw a really great concert featuring a woman named Teressa Andersson (http://www.youtube.com/user/theresaandersson) and a sister duo called Vermilion Lies (vermilionlies.com). Both performances were awe-inspiring and exciting.
Jessica and I have been having a nice time. She works during the day, and I figure out ways to pass the time. The other day I cooked a huge pot of soup and we hosted a dinner party with a bunch of Jessica's friends and that was a lot of fun. Yesterday I found 11 dollars, bought a pair of cheap sunglasses, and visited a friend from camp, Christine.
So in case you don't know the plan: Casey and I are flying to Tampa (thanks Jeff!!) and then we're going to take care of some business at New College, visit friends, and then bike to Miami. From Miami we will bike up the east coast and then into Atlanta. We need to be home by November 20th-ish, so we will have to push it. It's about a 1000 mile trip. I am excited to work on more recordings and take photos. Oh that reminds me... I don't think we have made this very public, but our mission has changed slightly. We are now concentrating on documenting our trip through soundslides (slideshows with audio). We are doing slideshows on as many aspects of our lives as we can, striving for a more accurate representation of the lifestyle of the touring cyclist. This doesn't mean we have stopped trying to learn from others. In fact, it has made us more in tune with our surroundings. When you are armed with an audio recorder and a camera, the world comes into a more artistic focus, and you see and hear with the eyes and ears of an artist. Or at least I like to feel that way. We are constantly learning, but sometimes these conversations or experiences are hard to capture. So you might notice that the website has some buttons taking you to the soundslides. Those are our new project, and we are constantly improving upon them and making more. There is a lot of progress to be made as we get used to working with the medium, and I am excited to do this next leg of the trip.
Until who knows when,
David
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Where to begin?
I am ashamed for leaving you for so long, but you must understand, I have been so busy. You know how it is, once you hit a city and meet up with friends, life just takes off. So now, one whole month later, I have come back to you; but only for a moment.
Gosh, I have so much to tell you that I can hardly start. Well, Casey and I are in California. Fort Bragg, CA, to be exact. We have biked here from Portland. And guess what? I have done the whole distance without the bike motor!! Yeah, I took that old thing off in Portland after a short overnight bike trip with Casey and Gabe made me realize that I can bike again. My knee has healed, and Casey and I have been careful to ease into the tour.
So here I am with over 1000 miles on my bicycle computer and going strong.
I can't begin to describe how good it feels to be in a well-functioning body. I feel redeemed; feel a new confidence in my ability to go adventuring.
The views have been stunning. From the lands of craggy coast line in southern Oregon to the towering ancient trees of the California Redwood forests, I have been reveling in the landscapes of this part of the country. One of the coolest parts is being so intimate with the changing land. You really know when you have gone through a mountain pass because you pedaled your way to the top and then coasted to the bottom. You passed the through the timberline and panoramic views of the land below, and then leveled along the lush ferny and mossy river valley. I am constantly stopping to document natural scenes I find myself a part of, but feel frustrated by my camera's inability to capture their magnificent wholeness.
Casey and I have managed to live very inexpensively, only really spending money on snickers and lentils from the Grocery Outlets. We have racked up a significant amount of karmic debt to local food banks along the coast as well. Our ecological/ economic footprint seems nearly microscopic with this lifestyle and that feels awesome. It is especially interesting for us to think about the major events and impending changes in our nation and world regarding the global financial crisis. We have chosen a lifestyle that is probably the most directly unaffected we can think of. We are trying to keep as updated on it as possible, downloading The News Hour podcasts and listening to them on our mp3 players.
Oh boy... we've got some rain coming our way. It's looking like it might be heavy and cold. We're a little under 200 miles from San Fransisco. Once we get there we will try to update the website with content and stay with housing cooperatives if they will let us. Then we will fly to Washington DC using the buddy passes Jeff the pilot gave us. From there Casey and I will go our separate ways for a few days and then reunite to bike our way back to Atlanta. That's the plan for now.
I guess I will end this and try to post some pictures, but I wanted to make sure the Blog readers hadn't given up on us. We're working hard, taking all kinds of pictures and audio recordings, and definitely having fun.
Until next time!
Friday, August 29, 2008
Almost to Portland and feeling the miles all the way to my soullllll
This was at the sculpture garden. These are prayer ribbons.
Dear Blog,
88% of a biker’s power is used up battling air resistance. I know. I didn’t believe it at first either. But countless real-life examples have convinced me once and for all. I will be going down a hill, at a nice 11 mph and then a wind slows me down to 5 mph and I have to engage the motor to ease the stress on my knees. Then I look to the trees to see how hard this wind is blowing only to find the low branches on the fir trees next to me being tickled only slightly. This can be extremely demoralizing.
Furthermore, with the motor’s chain put on, each pedal has to turn the gear and turbine in the engine. This yields each turn of the wheel very inefficient, to the point where I will slow to a halt on a downhill if I stop pedaling. Therefore, I have sometimes resorted to removing the chain when I have a stretch of more-or-less level ground. Removing the chain takes a good 5 minutes and putting it back on takes about 10. You can only see so far up the road and it’s difficult to tell how the terrain will pan out. So it is always a gamble taking the chain off or putting it back on.
In a lot of ways the motor feels like a temporary solution, but I don’t see how my knees could handle traveling without it. I wonder how much weight I could shed by abandoning the whole system and if the difference would let me pedal without pain. Hmmm. Big questions.
I’m enjoying the book I’m reading: Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods. It is about Bill adventure hiking the Appalachian Trail with his travel companion, Katz. I like the book not only because he’s a great, hilarious writer, but because he has a great way of putting the complex combination of profoundly monotonous long-distance travel and the beauty of just traveling; timeless, destinationless, traveling. He also fully understands the dynamic of journeys where the fact that you don’t have to do this never leaves your consciousness, and yet the mystifying sense of mission spurs you ever onward.
I guess I would say he is my traveling companion right now.
One of the richest descriptions he has offered is the strangeness of small-town America, a topic which has occupied my thoughts quite a bit lately. He describes Franklin, NC, (although it could have been any small town) as “small, dull, and cautiously unattractive, but mostly dull—the sort of place where you find yourself, for want of anything better to do, strolling out to the lumberyard to watch guys on forklifts shunting wood about.” My experience in several small towns the other day were similar, except flavored more with the feeling that I was patently unwelcome. After leaving Kati Thompson’s place in Olympia, I encountered a series of small towns. Kati’s, by the way was totally awesome. Kati sat next to me on the airplane ride to Seattle and gave me her card. I found it just in time to contact her in Olympia, and she invited me to stay the night. She has two cute kitties and a nice room to stay in. She and her husband have stopped drinking because they want to conceive a child. Men should stop drinking three months before conception and women one month. So they gave me browsing privileges to their beer collection. I had a delicious home-cooked dinner and breakfast, and got to watch a movie. It rocked.
Anyway…Walking into a tavern at 2:00 in Tenino, I was greeted by three large backs, midriff spilling out the bottom of each shirt, and a pitcher to the right of each one. Asking the woman behind the bar if there was a menu, she nipped back that menus are all over the place. So I found a piece of paper on the wall above one of the tables and studied it carefully, trying to find a burger. None appearing, I asked one of the backs where a guy could get a burger.
—What? Spoke one of the backs.
–A burger? Do you know where I could find one around here?
–This is it.
Scanning the menu once more and seeing no burger, I could feel the heat of helplessness spreading through the back of my neck. Should I get a coke then? Some wings? A beer?
Glancing at the backs again I realized that I would not be missed, nor when I feel any regret if I just left. So without a word, I walked back out into the daylight. I got the feel that each man in there felt silent, muted sense of victory.
So the next town I came to, Bucoda had a tavern that I was told by a woman had a good burger. Walking in, I got the same un-warm and un-fuzzy unwelcome feeling. I decided to stick it out and ordered a bowl of chili. And here I might add that my ordering skills have been wretched lately. I’ve been making choices like ordering a fish sandwich at a Thai restaurant, or an Americano from McDonalds when there is a cute espresso stand literally next door. So anyway, I order chili, and the woman tiresomely pulls a can of chili off a shelf, plops it into a bowl and sticks it into a microwave. All things considered, I realized that this was probably the only business decision that really made sense. So I restrained the urge to ask: Oooh, is this homemade?
When I told the woman that I was going to try to find a place to sleep in Chehalis, she gave me an unhopeful look and advised against it. Chehalis is kind of a dead town, she said. Again, I had to exercise self-control to not ask how Chehalis compared to this one. She suggested Centralia, a town about 4 miles above Chehalis. So when I reached Centralia and saw all the freedom is not free graffiti and the bumper sticker that said: For a small town, this one sure has a lot of assholes, I feared what Chehalis would have in store for me. But it was still rather early in the afternoon and I guess I wanted to prove the lady in Bucoda wrong, so I continued forth to Chehalis.
As far as I could tell, Chehalis wasn’t much different. Eventually I found a fire station on the south side of town and asked the fireman if I could set up my tent in their backyard. I could, as long as I didn’t go inside. Fair enough.
speaking of small towns...
The next day (yesterday) turned out to be what one might call a bad day. Well for most of it, at least. It started off with a slow and sore body. Soon I realized my fuel filter was clogged with gas tank gunk. After fixing that, I took a wrong turn, going a couple of miles out of my way. After finally getting back on track, I found out in Napavine that my muffler was broken. The baffle lost its welding, to be more specific. But to my great fortune, there was a muffler shop right in town. So I dropped off my muffler and went to a little café where I ate a very sad and kind older woman’s uneaten hash browns. In just this year she has lost her husband and her seven-year old granddaughter to cancer. It is always hard to know what to say in these situations.
So as I was putting my muffler back on I noticed that my jerry-rigged gas tank was leaking out of the valve. Now there was probably nothing I could have done to fix this, but the muffler guy told me that there was a guy about a mile back who has a bunch of lawnmowers in his yard who might help me. As it turns out, he was great. He moved with the patience and weight of an old man who has worked too hard his whole life. But he was very kind and into making everything work. It was just how I always romanticize help from strangers. So now I have a new gas tank.
This is the nice man who gave me the lawnmower gas tank.
Later in the afternoon, I took a wrong turn, going nearly fifteen stupid miles (yes every mile was stupid) out of my way. The views were gorgeous, but I definitely didn’t feel like seeing them twice. This was late in the day and everything hurt.
When I got to Longview, the place where I had worked out accommodations with a warmshowers.org member, I took several wrong turns, extending my journey a good hour longer than it should have been. That’s right, four wrong turns in one day. But the day ended with a warm shower, a delicious hamburger, baked beans, potato salad, an arm chair, a football game and a nice family. So I guess the day wasn’t all that bad.
So here I am, about 50 miles outside of Portland, taking a rest day. I’m afraid yesterday was too much for my feeble frame.
I find myself thinking about the difference between traveling solo and traveling with a partner. My thoughts right now are that traveling with a partner would be more conducive to fun, spontaneous interactions. I get self-conscious with the impression that I am perceived as homeless and in need of things. I feel that I am received with wariness. And I feel that I am less inclined to knock on the fire station’s door and strike up a conversation with a firefighter. I imagine that when you’re traveling with a partner, you look less needy, maybe less crazy and more like a young man on a bicycle tour. And I also believe in the magic that happens with a group where comfort zones are stretched a little and the bouncing around of ideas yields better ones. (The two minds are better than one phenomenon).
I’m not sure about all this, and maybe it’s just how I justify the lack of interesting interactions I haven’t been having.
In other news, I am beginning to think that I am doomed to be a domestic. Seeing mini-vans, well-taken care of houses, families, smoking chimneys, even witnessing sibling squabbles gives me peace inside. Now this is not what I was envisioning for my rugged solo journey. I was thinking more of getting in touch with my teddy Roosevelt rugged masculinity, but I guess you can’t fight fate…
John Shedd once said in 1928: “A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for.” It is very tempting when I find a comfortable situation to hang out and enjoy it. And that is ok for a moment to rest and recuperate, but I think I would feel much better if I kept moving. Furthermore, the domesticity that I find so nice I believe comes from feeling protected and warm and loved. But I wonder how much of this is just me faltering before I truly leave the nest, and that one day I will feel comfortable with uncertainty and not being supported by family. I look forward to this day when I will feel fully at ease outside the harbor. I bet this will be the day when I’m wholly prepared to be a provider and protector. Until then, I’ll continue to be on my own, aching for the ever-present love of my mama and my aunty and my sissy and Leonard. Note: when I speak of love, I now employ bell hooks’ list of ingredients which includes: care, affection, recognition, respect, commitment, trust, and honest and open communication.
Oh, one of the cool things about biking is that you are starving most of the time. When you have food, can justify sending a little money, or find a generous soul, food is amazing. The even cooler thing about being starving while you bike is that you pass over all kinds of litter on the side of the road. Little nuggets of encouragement, telling you that when you reach the next town, there will be a Dairy Queen Blizzard waiting with your name on it. I believe that deep down, that is why people toss trash outside their window. They’re like the scratches on the post outside a house that tells other travelers that it is a friendly one. They’re artifacts of civilization, passively informing you that there is good to be found in the next town.
My last thought: I am constantly searching for an occupation that would suit me, and none come to mind. I worry that I will end up unhappily toiling for a capitalist who has no concern for my or my fellow worker’s well-being. If not that, then I worry that I will forever be unable to decide and will be stuck in a cycle of aimless, kinless, penniless vagrancy. I don’t truly believe this, but that is a good example of the type of anxieties that enter the mind a young burgeoning twenty-first century Odyssian consumerist. I do believe that one day I will find my niche. Until then, I think I have decided that my greatest asset (gift, or whatever you want to call it) is my unquestioning kindness and eagerness to just listen.
Lately however, I have gotten the impression that I’m not conveying this very well and I just kind of confuse people or make them uneasy. And I think this may be because I’m not really comfortable and confident when I approach people and this is perceptible. For a good interaction to happen, I think both people need to feel at ease if not confident. For me, I feel that said confidence will come soon, and that will make things much more enjoyable.
Wrap-up: I’ve biked about 220 miles. I average 40-50 miles a day, have taken a couple of rest days, and my knees are hurting. My wrists and elbows may end up being the worst injury of all. I’m feeling fatigued with life on the road. I waver between awe and bliss at the beautiful landscape to pining for a lawn chair, a hot burger, and the radio. The chain goes on, the chain comes off. The buckets unpacked, the buckets re-packed. The bum breaks in the leather saddle, the leather saddle breaks in the bum.
Monday, August 25, 2008
mossy minks, snug jeans, and too many words
A recap: I set out from Mercer Island around 2:00.
The next morning after getting to a late start, I discovered I had a flat front tire and experienced my first flat-fixing session with a loaded-down bike. Then about a ¼ mile into my ride, the idler pulley that gives the chain on my motor its tension decided to play hide and seek in the bushes while I was flying down a hill. This meant I would either have to hurt my knees on the up-hills or wait for help. Wisely, I chose the second option, and serendipitously, a pick-up stopped next to me, offering me a ride wherever I needed to go. He dropped me off at a hardware store, where it just so happened to be customer appreciation weekend and I was handed a hot-off-the-grill hot dog. They didn’t have what I needed, but I found my way to a bike shop where the mechanic there dedicated himself to my problem, crafting a new idler pulley out of an old rear derailleur. After several hours of sweaty adjustments, I had a working motor again. I decided to spend the remainder of the afternoon/evening in a coffee shop, planning out what to do next. As evening fell, I went in search of a sleeping spot. Bainbridge Island seems to be pretty well snatched-up as far as land goes. So I biked up a long residential hill, asking anyone who was outside if they wouldn’t mind lending me a section of their lawn to set up a tent. The 4th guy I asked said yes. He was interesting in that there was nothing interesting about him. Nor was he interested in why I was asking to sleep in his yard or who I was or anything. He matter of factly offered me his hose an then later a shower (which I declined). After a good meal of split pea soup and leftover salsa from my Mercer Island days I was feeling darn good. Being alone was no longer nearly as daunting and lonely. I think that actually having a small crisis and then overcoming it did a lot to my easing my anxiety. It was as if the whole time before, I had to throw up. Then finally I did, and felt much better afterward.
I left early the next morning and headed for Belfair, where I had arranged a house to stay in via warmshowers.org. It’s funny, after blasting destination orientedness, and our culture of destination orientedness, I found that having a destination is very comforting, and in this case, not limiting. Knowing where I was going, and knowing that I was going to have a place to sleep waiting for me helped me to have a really nice ride that day.
It’s a place where you’re not rewarded with attention when you’re doing your own thing because everyone else is doing their own thing and doesn’t wonder at you or feel any jealousy.
How’s my body? Sore. My knees undertook a beating today and my elbows and wrists are starting to file complaints about the handlebars they’re forced to lean on. My muscles are feeling the burn, but in a good way. I think I have discovered that if I focus on using my muscles, my joints hurt less. Perhaps I have spent my life relying on my structure to do the motions rather than my muscles. Perhaps this would explain my perpetual and mysterious problems with joints. Perhaps it would explain my lack of large and impressive beach muscles. But these are all just peculation. I will have to look more into this topic.
I keep feeling like I should have something on my back. Perhaps it’s an association in my brain with this trip and the many back-packing trips I’ve taken over the years. Or maybe it’s some weird thing that happens when you are being propelled by a motor. I just hope its not a vacancy where my guardian angel usually hangs out.
I have not picked out a route for the rest of my way to Portland. And when I’m doing that, I’m not going to use Mapquest, because as David explained to me last night, when Mapquest doesn’t find the street you typed in, it defaults to the center point of the zip code. For Belfair, this spot happens to be in the woods next to David’s house. He wrote Mapquest a letter after many encounters with folks looking for the library and other institutions highly unlikely to be found way up his windy gravel road.
So I don’t know yet how I’m getting to Portland or when I’m getting there, but the prize is in sight. This excites me greatly and fills me with confidence that I can in fact accomplish a goal this summer.
Thanks for reading, and I wish you all good luck and motor assists in your own journeys.
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Leaving?
It looks like I'm finally leaving. Is leaving the right term? Leaving seems to imply moving away from something negative like a bad relationship or a stifling hometown. Or leaving something behind. That's definitely not what I'm doing. I haven't counted, but I'm pretty sure I have been living with my cousins on Mercer Island for over a month. It has been an awesome month. Even though all the days have blurred together, I am here on the eve of departing with four close family members I probably never would have ever really known. I have made several new friends with some great folks. I have a new bicycle, and a growing knowledge base of 2-stroke engines and Starbucks lingo. I have evidence on my body of passing time (located on my chin and head), of bicycle repair (mostly on my hands), and of amazing meals and desserts (located mostly in the hips and buttocks). I have the confidence to find a store in Seattle without Google maps, and the ability to make a delicious salsa without epicurious.com. There is a lot that I will take with me from the time spent on Mercer Island and I am at a loss as to how I can show my appreciation to my cousins for taking me in as a third child home from college.
For those reasons, I am hesitant to say that I'm leaving.
But there's more. I'm also not leaving because it implies an end-- a clean break. But tomorrow morning I will walk out the door, mount my bicycle, ride for 20 minutes, and still be on the island. I will cross the I-90 bridge (which will seem much longer than it is) and will be able to look back on the island and actually see the house. It's on the hill on the southern side, right in front of the line of trees that border the QFC and the little shopping center a block from the house. I will then bicycle through Seattle, and until the afternoon will only be a bus ride or a phone call from domestic comfort. A ferry will take me to Bainbridge and I could still be considered to be in Seattle. And all through these landmarks will be minutes broken down by seconds during which I will be encountering various incidents and accidents, all the while thinking, reacting, and munching on food still cold from the refrigerator. It will be a gradual change into adventure mode, and that's just what I'm doing: changing. I'm going to be changing location, lifestyle, mode of transportation, spending habits, many things. And gradually, but before I know it, I will be on a vagrant bicyclist, looking (and being) homeless, dirty, spontaneous, and more public than most. Or at least that's how I'm choosing to romanticize it at the moment. But anyway, I'm not leaving, I'm embarking. That sounds much more exciting and enticing to the Gods of Adventure.
The other morning I thought that I was leaving and I had the jitters the entire day. In all honesty I am very nervous about this trip. I have never really done a bike trip, nor have I traveled alone for more than 48 hours, not to mention traveling alone on a bike trip for an undetermined amount of time. So many things are up in the air. For example, even though I have spent nearly every waking hour on preparing my steed for travel, I have no idea if it will behave or hold up to transit.
Then there's my body. That hasn't been the most reliable part of my summer so far. I have no plans for where I will be sleeping from here on out, and for some reason finding a sleeping spot is much easier with another person to weigh in on decisions. Heck, most things seems much easier with a companion. Especially late at night when the bugaboos come and anxiety starts filling in the space where your lungs go.
Gosh, I hope my mama keeps her phone on the next couple of nights!! :o
But even though I'm nervous, I am definitely ready to leave. The summer has passed and folks around me are going back to school. It's time for me to take advantage of my free time and to go get em tiger and all that.
This is all, of course, hinging on whether or not I am able to actually and finally depart. My rig is the most ridiculous bike I have ever seen, but I think it's ready. Wish me luck, and please hope with me that the next blog comes from a new location typed by a young man full and intact. Oh, and while you're hoping, pray for me to find a thesis topic, will ya?
Thanks
Au Revoir!
P.S. Does anyone have a net for all these butterflies in my belly?
Saturday, August 16, 2008
the guy at Starbucks officially knows my "usual"
Dear Blog,
So adventures are inherently uncertain. I'm pretty sure that's the source of their appeal and the reason for their pursuit. But when does uncertainty leave the realm of psychological or physiological arousal and enter the realm of inconvenience and disappointment? For the readers of my last post, you might think I am living it up on
Patience, young flower; your turn will come.
The past few days have been quite fun. It’s been great introducing my friends to my family and visa versa (although I’m not sure how well I prepared Marvin and Kathleen for our collective laissez-faire/ je ne
The other night the boys, Cousin Caitlin, Rachael and I drove out to Carnation to watch the Perseid meteor shower. We were having a blast in our primo location on a dark baseball field and suddenly around 2:00, two police cars pull up. So we pretend to be asleep whilst the ultra-bright search light passed repeatedly over and around us, ruining our night vision. Now for some reason playing opossum seems to be the obvious response to these situations, and I’m willing to bet it’s because of the natural phenomenon with all police encounters, in which you are automatically guilty no matter what you have or haven’t done. There’s some deep psychological power inside that question: So what’s going on, guys? And then: Do you know that you are trespassing?
-…Sorry…
-You guys are going to have to leave.
-…Ok… The light scans our cluttered area and stops on our boxes of Girl Scout cookies
-Actually, none of you guys are on
- I don’t think so…
-Ok, well you don’t seem to be causing any harm. I tell you what, you guys can stay.
Amazing! That encounter has taught me two important lessons: 1. Police can in fact be reasonable, and 2. Always carry a box or two of Girl Scout Cookies.
So a couple of days ago we dropped Casey, Evan, and Devin off at the airport. Gabe left yesterday. I have continued and will continue to work on my bike motor and hope to leave on a solo trip to
I haven’t lost sight of the original passion and dedication to the Listen Mission, and I am more ready than ever to make it happen. I hope, hope, hopey McHopelstein that the motor will be the answer to my woes. I guess we will see.
Progress has slowed slightly, as I think I have come down with a stomach bug. Last night I slept 14 hours, more than half of which were spent in a half-awake feverish delusion where I thought my body was an extremely heavy motor and each sleep session was responsible for making some sort of important, yet impossible connection with the exhaust pipe. I am feeling a little better, but still weak and nauseous (wow, how did that word get so many vowels?)
In other news, I am becoming increasingly worried about getting a job in this world. If you’re not an expert in something, it seems like it would be hard to find meaningful and invigorating work. And since I am having trouble finding something I would be willing to become an expert in, I am fretting. And then I look at commercials on the Olympics and I realize how good people are out there at what they do. Somehow a credit card company is able to wrench my heart strings and it’s more than their use of sepia tone and an emotionally charged Olympics story. It offends me and yet awes me at how affected I am. How can I be so impressionable? These marketing teams are unbelievable. They are masters at their art. Somehow they are able to make Michael Phelps’ diet of 10,000 calories per day and his video game addiction seem endearing and hear warming to me. I don’t know. I shouldn’t worry about these things. Right now I need to worry about getting out of these suburbs where people who stand out because of their joviality are dismissed as being “Zoloft-happy.”
I apologize that this post hasn’t been as enjoyable and rich with quotations from philosophers and insights, but I’m finding optimism in short supply. I have made the big leap to do something difficult and off the beaten path and have found myself freeloading at my cousin’s house for a month. How can I justify not getting a job or taking a semester off if I’m not out there figuring thing out, making discoveries and meanings?
I know, I know… it’s a strange way to approach life, living with all these lofty goals and romanticizations, but maybe one day, I will truly learn to find beauty and love wherever I am and in whatever I do. And then I will strum a few chords on my lute and ride off into the sunset on my motor bike, a wise and bearded man.
Did I mention all of the beautiful sunsets we’ve been having?
Friday, August 1, 2008
movies, ice cream, ice cream, pie, reading, coffee, ice cream, berries, driving, ice cream
So the title pretty much sums it up. I'm still on
I believe it's important for me to keep reminding myself that this is my big youthful summer of freedom and exploration; my time to rack up memories and stories so that I can encourage youngin's to do the same when I'm older and wishing I weren't weighed down with responsibilities and joint pains. Gosh, I guess I'm half way there already...
But it doesn't feel like I'm on my big adventure. The way things are right now is definitely not how I had imagineered in the months leading up to here. I am not that tan, sinewy, weathered yet jubilant traveler I had dreamed of. In fact my current lifestyle seems to yield results on the "au contraire" side. But to be optimistic about it, it is important for me to remind myself that this is indeed an adventure. Indeed I am taking a semester away from school and I am indeed learning new things. I am learning how to navigate the city, how to convert a car to run on veggie oil, how to use a bread machine, how to roll pie crust dough, how to make a mean chocolate sauce, and I am learning a little family history. I've also learned (through a conversation with cousin Kathleen) that perhaps I might be interested in adventure education. But don't get too excited. More than likely that's just the flavor of the week. Possible thesis topic? Who knows!
From another angle, I think it's important for me to remind myself I'm on an adventure because it is too easy to take everything for granted. Especially right now as I am living la vida luxury. Sure you could say this about anything: good health, or having people who love me and who I can love, etc. But right now, it's my ability to take time off from school, to have the privilege and freedom to embark on this Grand Tour of sorts that I feel grateful for. And I really think I should acknowledge this. Not with the angst that one often feels in confronting one's privilege, but in a way that involves sincere appreciation and the impulse to use it to its full potential. So in that light, hopefully I'll be able to join in the lifestyle that is more conducive to making memories and stories, but until then, I will continue to be revel in my stable and immobile state.
So how about a summary of my past week?
Well, sitting here trying to recollect makes me realize that all the days blend together like so many Starbucks Vivanno smoothies. I suppose I could make a list of things I remember in no particular order ... Would that be fun? Cool:
Hot tubbin, family movie nights with pizza and salad, fancy anniversary seafood dinner at Ray's boathouse, swimming in Lake Washington (especially challenging for a Gulf guy), driving Cousin Marvin to Tacoma, helping him pack and move out of his old office, painting walls a nice warm yet pale yellow, Ballard seafood festival, kite flying, berry picking, kayaking on Union Bay, Pendleton sweater buying, Adam living here for several days, veggie oil conversion attempt, bicycle searches, physical therapy exercises, drive to Mount Rainier National Park, card games, dominoes, dishwashers, Starbucks, pleasantries. Of course there's more, but I'm afraid that was going on too long.
If nothing else, this time has given me some peace and quiet. Time to be by myself a little. The last semester was so overwhelming. And then gearing up for this trip combined with the after-effects of the semester stress seems to have left me and my fragile psyche somewhat out of whack. This has been rather providential in that I have been forced against my will to relax and be content with inaction. I have been able to process a little which is something that even if I think of it, can never seem to do most of the time. That said, it hasn't been totally sweet missing out on the bike tour...
Seeing Adam has reminded me though, that even when I miss out on an experience or adventure with my friends, I'm not losing something irreplaceable. If I am on the trip, then whatever is happening is what is happening. It's the current reality, it's fun, and it doesn't seem all that remarkable, even if the stories are awesome. Then again, if I'm not on the trip, it feels like I am missing out on something colossal. But of course there is no allotted amount of awesome experiences and new ones are always just an impulse away. Plus, I am so lucky to have friends where every time we see each other, nothing is different, regardless of how much time or how many experiences have transpired in the interim.
So this time away has been good. I am so fortunate and grateful for having my cousins out here. They have taken me in as their own. They feed me and take me kayaking and let me borrow their car, gave me my own room, and include me in their activities. It has all been so relaxing and comfortable. But it has also been a time warp. It’s about time I get back on the road. There’s something about not having a day full of activities that make days seem extremely short. And there’s something about having a bunch of those days in a row that makes them all indiscernible from one another. It’s funny; this summer was supposed to be the most jam-packed, bodacious summer of all time, and yet of late, it is one of the only summers I can think of when I have experienced boredom that is often associated with a poorly planned summer vacation.
One of the first things Adam said to me when he got here was that I needed to leave. I think he’s right. He always seems to be right. He’s inherited the wisdom of his mama and every time I see him, he’s filled into it more. Our conversations send my brain on important trains of thought that it never would have boarded without him.
So I should leave… well it just so happens that-- dun-dun-dun!!! I probably can! No, my knee isn’t better. But that doesn’t matter! I’m motorized!! Well, almost. I need to find an industrial-strength chain tool and figure out how to get the thing started. But the big news is that I have bought a 70 cc motor and a mountain bike. Together, I should be able to travel upwards of 25 mph for a whopping 100 miles a gallon. It has taken me hours and hours of grease and magic curse words (and magic curses and greasy words) to get it all put together, but today I see an end. I also sold the original touring bike that facilitated my cartilage damage. I don’t harbor feelings of resentment for it, but I was happy to see it go.
So here’s my plan: Tomorrow I finish the motor and gear up the bike. Then the next day I figure out a way to get to
So I’ve been on
Cue Gene Autry's "Back in the Saddle Again" (which coincidentally is on the Sleepless in Seattle soundtrack).
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Seatless in Seattle
I am spending some time off the bicycle seat. To my great fortune, I am s
I returned to Seattle on the same day as planned, but the journey was a little more exciting than I had expected. Because public transportation wasn't going to be able to get me back to Seattle at a reasonable time, I decided to take a bus to Port Townsend and try my hand at hitch hiking. So I went to a hardware store, bought myself a sharpie, took some cardboard out of their recycling bin and made some nice bubble letters that said: Seattle? Bainbridge??
It was strange. Most folks wouldn't even look at me, not to mention read my sign. It occurred to me then that the thing to do when you see someone panhandling or anything of that sort, is to acknowledge them. Even if you don't plan to give anything, you should look at him or her, smile, nod, or give a thumbs up. But averting your eyes or ignoring is insulting. In my life I have often simply ignored the person standing on the corner, and for different reasons, I'm sure. Not wanting to make eye contact for fear that social psychological forces will compel me to feel guilt or discomfort and end up giving money is chief among them. But if I really don't want to give money or time, I should be sure of it (and myself) enough to be able to make a connection with the person. But not looking or ignoring is denying any human connection. It is making assumptions about the person, defaulting on heuristics that necessarily leave out trying to understand the person's situation. The man or woman holding the sign is still a person (and this is an important and obvious epiphany I have made working with the homeless), and being without certain things (car, home, hooch) is often only a matter of circumstance that really just affects the way the person appears in that moment.
Wow, I definitely didn't plan on writing that little manifesto, but I guess I'm glad I did.
So eventually I heard a voice coming from an old pick up truck wearing a canoe as a hat in the McDonald's parking lot. The guy inside asked me what I was doing, I told him I was injured from a bike tour and was trying to get back to Seattle. He stroked his goatee for a moment and said, "I guess I could go to Seattle." So I threw my load into his truck and he drove me back to his house. His name was Nate, he does construction, and he's done plenty of hitch hiking of his own. He has a baby (almost 2) named Israel. After we unloaded the truck and took the cooler full of the crabs he pulled up from his traps (he checks them twice a day in his canoe), we rode bik
The first day back in Seattle I went out to lunch with the cousins and had my first crumpet. Those are really good. My sister, Jessica was so right. That night I slept in Chelsea's bed and he slept in the front yard (her choice) and I woke up from the most vivid dream. Perhaps I am showing too much of the nether regions of my psyche, but I will share this dream.
I spent the entire dream going through normal life situations, but in deep, self pitying depression. Everything I did seemed to fail and bad luck happened upon me at every turn. I would break down in deep sobs and wander directionless and useless. At some point I was in the desert with the boys and Devin was cracking eggs. I wanted to crack one, as in some strange dream logic, a successful egg would redeem my worth in some way. Devin warned me not to drop it. Well I cracked the egg right into the sand. That was it for me. I walked away and sat down next to this demolished graffiti'd building. A shirt with graffiti caught my eye. It said:
Love.
Yes, or no?
Well, then in the dream, it hit me. Love apparently is something that can be chosen. Which means it is an action, rather than something that happens to you or someone. A verb, rather than a noun. And it was clear that I needed to make the choice to give myself love and thus I would grow, secure in my worth and value, being able to spread love where ever I go.
So I have been thinking about love a bit lately, with help from a book I am reading called "All About Love" by bell hooks. It's good stuff.
Today I took a bike ride around Seattle and my knee started hurting pretty badly. That was frustrating because I was on a bike that fits me. See, I traded bikes with Chelsea, as she is going to work on a farm for the rest of the summer. This replacement bike fits much better, but apparently my knee doesn't discriminate against different bikes. Fortunately, Marvin is a doctor and after some poking and prodding, informed me that I have damaged some cartilage under my knee and need to rest and do some simple strengthening exercises.
Well, gosh. So of course, I called up the boys who are in Vancouver and told them to take their time on their trip. No need to come back to Seattle for a while. I wonder when I will become a burden for my cousins. I think tomorrow I will start looking through craigslist to see if I can find some work. Maybe picking berries??
Well, I have said too much. Thanks for making it this far down the page with me.
If you're reading this, I probably miss you. But I am enjoying this down time and getting to know my cousins. I am eating exceptionally well and feeling pretty good about things. My head is rather clear and my lungs are enjoying the fresh air here.
David, out!
Friday, July 18, 2008
Last day in Port Angeles
Dear Blog,
Alrighty. It looks like we're heading out of this little town tomorrow morning. I can't say I'll miss it too much. Even though its a pretty town (from where I am sitting in the Bella Rosa coffee shop I can see the action on the Strait of Juan de Fuca) and it's been great getting to know Cody,I think I've spent too much down time here. I have been to the Goodwill down the road a few too many times. I've eaten too much ice cream by myself, and bought too much coffee so I can get on the internet in Bella Rosa. I've spent too much time staring at Cody's lawn, contemplating the short list of activities a lone invalid can do in a small town that doesn't involve eating or spending money. But even though leaving will provide a new landscape and new possibilities, the fundamental problem remains: I still can't pedal my way about town. My knee is definitely feeling better (an encouraging detail), but the pain persists.
So you might be asking: what's the plan, Stan? Well, to begin with, my name's not Stan. But as far as the plan, tonight we will watch Cody act and sing in the musical he has been working on. Tonight is opening night. We're looking forward to it. So far the only lines we know from the musical are: "There are giants in the sky" and "into the woods." Then in the morning, the folks on bikes will head out early for Bainbridge to catch the ferry back to Seattle. I will figure out what public transportation or hitch-hiking methods are available and meet them in Seattle. Gabe has sent out a couple of emails to people on warmshowers.org, an incredible resource for touring cyclists to find a place to stay or shower. Browsing the site, I have found so many interesting people that sound really eager to take in a bunch of bikers. It's so cool.
While we're there, Evan will try to figure out his bike situation. He shipped his bike with Greyhound and they have somehow misplaced or rerouted his box and no one knows where it is. A word to the wise: from Gabe's Casey's, and Evan's experiences with Greyhound, we have determined that they are not the service to use when shipping something you want. So Evan will work on that, Gabe and Evan will replace their hopelessly leaky thermarests, Casey will probably bike around, Chelsea will leave us to work on a farm, I'm not sure what Adam will do, and I will try to get in touch with my cousin, Marvin, who runs a rehab clinic in Seattle. Hopefully he will be able to or will know someone who can help me mend myself. The most important part of going back to Seattle, though is to meet up with DEVIN!!! YAYAYAYYY! Devin arrived in Seattle this morning. We have all been eagerly awaiting his arrival. The group of six will finally be complete. I guess we need some kind of intimidating biker gang name. Any good ideas out there?
Well we had our first town meeting today. We decided we would like to have those daily, but that's a tall order for a bunch of easily distracted, antsy dudes like us. It's like herding a bunch of cats.
But anyway, we all sat down (except for Adam, and checked in and stuff. Chelsea has been thinking about a motorcycle she wants to buy. David has been thinking about the book he's reading, All About Love, and about how the group dynamics of one immobile person and 6 antsy adventurists are taking shape and what we should do. Evan has been thinking about the bit he read about hang gliding in the thrift store and how he feels that the group is really congealing and things are falling into place. Casey has been feeling great about being out with his best buddies, and he said something else, but I can't remember... it must not have been real exciting or important. Gabe has been thinking about Rancho Bravo (a taco stand in Seattle) and something else about food. He's thinking about blogging and route planning. We also talked about how we should return the favor to Cody and decided to clean his house, which we did after the town meeting ended.
So today's been a good day. It started off with some "hot conty" as we call it, which translates to free hot continental breakfast. Later in the day we had a little throwback and played Butt's Up for a while. Adam and I had some flashbacks from our youth playing with our old buddy Daniel and his merciless big brother, Jean Paul. There are clean clothes hanging on some clotheslines outside and we've all had a little time to ourselves. Tonight we will watch the musical, brown some onions we given from the produce department of the grocery store, SAARS, yes, pronounced like the acronym for severe acute respiratory syndrome.
Well I suppose I have run out of things to say. I will take my long-winded self off this blog and figure out what to do with this over-sized bike of mine.
Love,
David
p.s. the pictures: 1. Evan is getting his ear pierced. 2. The group is contemplating the day after the hot conty. 3. Butt's Up on the back of the Safeway. 4. Adam about to get hit in the butt. 5. Adam cleaning his feet and Cody.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
And the adventure begins...
Dear Blog,
This is my first blog post of all time, and I must say I'm a little nervous. I never thought of myself as a "blogger." In fact, I rarely write down anything unless it's for school or some other less-than-voluntary obligation. But I think that writing stuff down will be good; good for me practice writing and recollecting, and good for people like the fam and others who might be interested in the types of things we are turning into memories.
So with that pretext out of the way, here’s a little update of our travels:
Well we are finally on the road.. And by we, I mean me, Casey, Gabe, and Evan. For those readers who may not know, Gabe and Evan are our best buddies who we’ll be traveling with for a while.
So since I can’t provide the whole list, I will just say that I think we overstayed our welcome in
We missed two ferries due to a couple of pickles, and got into Bainbridge around 11-something. A nice man we met on Pier 52 told us about a public park a few blocks from the water where we could probably crash for the night, and we found in pretty easily. We figured it was a relatively safe place to stay, as the local teenagers felt safe making all kinds of a ruckus on this stage that looked like a boat about 30 yards away.
We woke up feeling refreshed and ready to bike to meet up with Adam and his lady companion, Chelsea in
The ride went well for most of us. Yours truly, however must take a moment to gripe. I am injured. I knew it was going to happen, and some might say that is the explanation for the injury. If it is my own psychoneuroimmunology working against me, I have really messed myself up. My right knee is busted. The pain started within the first ten minutes of biking. I figured I just needed to warm up, so pedaled forth. Abut an hour into the ride, I was in significant pain, but decided to push through it. Why? Well, I felt a certain obligation to the boys to get to our destination. I also wanted to make it. And I figured it must be something wrong with my setup, so at each resting point, I would make a new experimental adjustment. But I think the main reason I that I’m young, foolish and sick of injuring myself every time I do something that requires a healthy body.
I was behind the group the whole ride, and for some reason this caused me some anxiety. But there was this one moment when I felt at peace that I would like to share. It went like this: Were on the bridge crossing
So about 50 miles into the journey, I was absolutely miserable. My left thigh was about to die from overcompensating for my right knee, and each down stroke on my right side was an exercise in major ego strength-diminishing mind-over-matter. I told the boys that I had to stop. We were a couple of miles outside of Sequim (say it like “sqwim”) and found a spot to sleep in the far end of an elementary school playground.
Off the bicycle, I was able to enjoy myself and the journey, and we dined on a delicious amalgam of ramen noodles, chopped hot dogs, and baked beans. I slept in a tent because my sleeping bag is apparently a little too thin for the
The next morning (this morning) we ate a breakfast of pigs in a sleeping bag (hot dogs and corn tortillas) and quickly found ourselves in the middle of a surprisingly large summer camp. We packed our stuff up as quickly as we could, but were definitely a source of wonderment for the youngin’s.
Seeing that my knee was worse than the day before, I told the group that I couldn’t travel with them. So they set off on the Olympic Discovery Trail on their way to
We found them staying in this guy, Cody’s front yard. Man, it was good to see Adam. For those who don’t know, he has been my best friend since before pre-school and I hadn’t seen him for a long time. Our visit was rather short-lived, as he, Chelsea and the boys pushed off to camp out in the national park by the
So here in am in the Bella Rosa coffee shop trying to mend myself and keep up with the website. I am severely bummed about missing these bicycle journeys and my buddies, and I fear how long this injury will last. As of now, it only gets progressively more painful. I wanted to heal myself at the
In these injured times, I find homesickness a little more easy to come by, and self-indulgent self-pity readily available.
But don’t worry, mama, I’m happy and having a good time. I’m on my big adventure, and I have no deadlines or destinations. We do what makes sense in the moment, and see what happens. Cody is letting me stay in his front yard and use his kitchen and bathroom and all that good stuff, and I’m making memories with my best friends. I have a tub of ice cream, a can of chili, a tiny laptop, a little town to explore, and time to spend with good ole’ number one.
*I hope this blog post was satisfactory. I don’t really know how they’re supposed to be, and I welcome any suggestions or requests for other types of information or forms of narration.
Until next time, this is